Fal daree, Fal deraa... A Happy Wanderer in Floripa

The small island of Florianopolis in southern Brazil has attracted a lot of media attention lately as ‘Brazil’s sexiest secret’, the ‘party destination’ of the year’. Journalists drool over its more glamorous beaches, such as Joaquina and Praia Mole. Mole is known to locals as the beach of the ‘bunda’ (‘bunda’ not meaning just any old bum, but a peach of a backside: plump, smooth and perfectly tanned). A New York Times journalist recently claimed that the surrounding nightlife blew away anything he’d enjoyed in LA or New York.

So what does Florianopolis have to offer to a traveller like myself, who likes to be tucked up in bed with a good book by 10.30pm, who hasn’t been to a nightclub since 1984 and has no intention of starting now, and who would rather not expose their pasty European bottom amidst a sea of perky brown beauties?

If I could choose a place to stay in Florianopolis, it would be in Lagoa da Conceição, a small town that sits in the middle of a 6 mile long lagoon in the middle of the island, and that has attracted more media attention than any other place on Floripa.

Not for its concentration of trendy clubs, of course, but because it is on the doorstep of a wealth of stunning and varied treks. Just 5 minutes walk from one of the most popular clubs on the island is the start of a trail which takes you over Floripa’s mountainous spine, to which the coastline clings, from Praia Mole to neighbouring beach Barra da Lagoa. It runs through the municipal park of Galheta, a protected area of Atlantic forest. This forest, which runs down the coastline of Southern Brazil is the country's less talked about but none the less huge and threatened cousin to the Amazonian forest. When you get to the peak of the hill, at around 180 metres above sea level you will get arguably the best view of the whole island. Looking back to your left, you will overlook Galheta and Praia Mole beaches, and beyond towards the south of the island. To your right, a panoramic view of the lagoon. And then in front of you, the riverside town of Barra da Lagoa and the curve of Mozambique beach, the longest beach on the island.

You could easily come to Florianopolis for 2 weeks and still not cover all of the treks. If you are very determined, you could walk from the most southerly village on the west of the island right around anti clockwise to its north westerly point at Daniela beach, a total distance of approx 50-60 miles, and only need to come onto the road for a couple of miles. On some parts of these treks, you could easily walk for 3-4 hours without seeing another soul.

You would be impressed by the contrast. For the most part, you would be weaving in and out of Atlantic forest, on a mountainside overlooking a rocky coastline. Within the forest, the butterflies that guide you along your path and the bromelias with their pink and red leaves clinging cleverly to the rocks and tree trunks would bring colour to the dark forest. Out closer to the coast, you would be able to enjoy beaches that can’t be reached by the road, sometimes just inhabited by a handful of intrepid surfers. You might see turtles, dolphins, a variety of birdlife, and the odd snake!

Further up the coast, the forest opens out to dunes, and you can wander through a surreal lunar landscape, dotted with little ponds and lakes. Some of the beaches are half day treks in themselves – Mozambique which weighs in at an impressive 13 km is mostly deserted. It is a stark contrast to the northern coastline, made up of more traditional resort beaches, littered with people and bars. As you reach the north west top of the island, the landscape changes again to predominately mangrove, where you might come across a crocodile or two.

I have never attempted to walk the whole way in one go, but I have pretty much walked each stage of it at one time or another. Apart from the panoramic view from Galheta Park, one of the most famous trekking destinations is the ‘Ponta de Felicidade’ on the south of the island. Ponta de Felicidade means the point of happiness, or bliss. The first feeling of bliss will be that of being able to rest after a steep uphill slog to 227m. Then you will look around you to the plateau which is scattered with standing rocks, like an unplanned Stonehenge. If you are really brave, you will inch onto one of the many slabs of rock that stick out of the side of the hillside and hang over the edge so that you can look down to Lagoinha do Leste beach way below you.

Of course, no trek is complete without a cold beer at the end. There will no shortages of places to enjoy one, or even a caipirinha, the famously strong Brazilian cocktail made from sugar cane rum, shared with your trekking companions. A plate of oysters or aipim (chips made from manioc root) to satisfy your hunger, and you are happy as the proverbial pig. Before going home for a nice early night, tucked up in bed while elsewhere on the island the clubbers start getting ready to go out.

Parrilla with cockroaches on the side, Buenos Aires

The fat waiter with stains on his shirt sucked his teeth and shook his head when I tried to pay my $25 bill with a $100 dollar note, obviously fed up of tourists traipsing in and spoiling his afternoon paper. But after an attempt at a humble apology in pigeon Spanish, he realised I was English and his surly face broke into a smile. He beckoned the girl behind the bar to take down a photocopied newspaper article which had been preserved by means of a plastic pocket, now covered in grease, and pinned proudly behind the bar in place of honour. I took it gingerley between my thumb and forefinger and began to read. The article started something like this... ´A fat waiter with stains on his shirt bought me a bowl of bread which I quickly devoured - it was then that I spotted the cockroach at the bottom of the bowl which was eagerly sharing my bread`. While it did go on to praise the cheap, tasty parrilla, the author relished in the details of the grease, the four different types of stain on the tablecloth, and the sullenness of the waiter. I read to the end of the article, trying not to laugh, and looked up to see the waiter waiting for my reaction. I didn´t disappoint him. I pointed to the words Sunday Times at the top of the page. ´Wow´, I said, ´mucho famoso´, nodding seriously. He smiled proudly, and tapped his stained, chubby chest. ´Mi bar!´

Oh, it's a little life, more or less...Or, trekking and turtles

At the very tip of Florianopolis are two beaches, Lagoinha, facing due north and Ponta das Canas just around the corner facing west. They are both popular beaches, dotted with umbrellas and busy with the sound of bat and ball being hit by the edge of the sea. But like so many of the beaches in Florianopolis, you can step 10 minutes away from the crowds and find yourself in the thick Atlantic Forest, amongst bromeliads and butterflies (and the occasional snake or spider's web), or climbing a rocky hillside looking out over the ocean.

The trek between the two beaches is a 45 minute walk each way. Still full of energy on our return leg we decided to take a detour down a little track to a small rocky peninsula. The peninsula looks directly out to sea and is a popular spot with fishermen. We had it to ourselves though - just us and the open ocean. The waves were crashing quite strongly against the rocks, and while we were looking into the water deciding whether it was safe to swim, we spotted a beautiful turtle moving gracefully under the water, and a minute later coming up for breath. He went back down and did a backward somersault, before popping back up again and nodding his head while taking a gulp of air. We managed to find a safe route into the water from the rocks and swam free in the cool open sea, surrounded by shoals of tiny silver fish. Sitting in the sun to dry off afterwards, the rocks below us appeared to shimmer and move - looking closer, we saw that there were dozens of tiny crabs scurrying around on the rocks.

In a bar on Lagoinha afterwards, we learnt a new phrase from our Brazilian friends: 'O, a vidinha, mais ou menos' ('Oh, a little life, more or less' or as we would say 'It's a tough life!')

Where to start

We've been coming and going to Brazil now for 5 years, and I have been looking for a way to capture some of the amazing experiences we have had - from the little everyday things which surprise and delight, to unforgettable trips and travels.

Sometimes our friends and family ask what we are up to... we say 'oh, nothing much really', especially when they are battling with impossible work schedules and the worst of the British winter. But here is a blog for those who want to dip in a little further and see our life in Brazil is really like.

Hope you enjoy!